My brother Doug is the quintessential adventure traveler. He would never consider going anywhere with a tour company or staying in more than a 1-star hotel. With one change of clothes, he hauls his video camera around the world to document the traditions of tribal people living in remote areas. Plane, boat, train, bus, truck, motorcycle, dogsled, camel, donkey, horseback or on foot – you name it – he’s traveled that way.
Director and cinematographer for the Off the Map travel series, you can find his new video website here: www.dougspencervideo.com
Today I am sharing the emails he sent recently from the islands of Java, Sumatra, Kalimamtan and West Papua in Indonesia. Being a visual guy, Doug’s words are brief, but they do convey a sense of what it’s like to travel in his shoes.
December 28, 2015
Did you know that the Asmat people of Papua showed respect to their ancestors by using their skulls as pillows? Saw this in a museum.
Just spent a week in Dani villages around Wamena in Papua. Most of the people now wear clothes with the exception of a few old farts running around in foot-long penis gourds.
Videotaped a dance, fire making and a “fight”. Rather touristy and expensive. Some tribes here weren’t “discovered” until the 1930s but they have been used to photographers since the 1950s. They know how to market their old cultures.
Flying back to Jakarta and Medan then taking a bus to Lake Toba.
January 4, 2016
On the island of Samosir on Lake Toba, I videotaped more cultural dances. It is the home of the Bataks who are known for their architecture: houses on stilts with saddleback roofs looking like buffalo horns.
Then it was back to Medan and a flight to Padang.
Do you remember those humid summer days when your undershirt was wet with perspiration after a five-minute walk? Well that’s Padang.
Headed to the small island of Siberut tomorrow on the good ship Ambur Ambur.
I pray to Allah I don’t get too seasick.
January 11, 2016
Greetings from the Island of Siberut.
Am 100 miles off the coast of Sumatra on the Indian Ocean. Survived the 20-hour ferry ride from Padang. My lucky day, the water was relatively calm. Going upriver soon to meet the Mentawaians.
The Mentawaians are skilled boat builders. Traditional clothing was the loincloth made from the bark of the breadfruit tree for men and a bark skirt for women. I’m scratching just thinking about it.
You can spend hundreds of dollars for guides to take you by boat to remote villages on the Island of Siberut, but I rented a motorcycle for $20 and went by road. Soon as I left the paved sections, I got stuck in the ruts. I walked a few miles until I met a kid who agreed to drive the motorcycle for me.
January 14, 2016
Back in Padang.
One hundred and six, one hundred and seven, one hundred and eight…oh sorry, just counting my insect bites.
I just have to say I’ve never met such lovely people. Very friendly, kind, considerate and down-to-earth.
The world needs more Sumatra!
January 15, 2016
I’ve been moving around quite quickly.
Left Padang yesterday morning, flew to Jakarta, flew to Balikpapan and bused it to Samarinda all in one day. So now I’m in Kalimantan.
In Padang, I had asked more than one motorcycle taxi, as backup, to pick me up at my guesthouse at 6:00am to take me to Padang airport.
I went with the first guy but the second was pissed that I had left and broke my promise. He chased us down and demanded money at the airport because I had broken our agreement.
I paid.
A little bit of drama to the day.
me: Did you know there was a terrorist attack in Jakarta on January 14 and one Canadian was killed? How is that for drama?
Doug: Yes, I heard about it. I may have been passing through Jakarta that day on the way to Kalimantan. As far as I know, I’m still alive.
January 21, 2014
From Samarinda, I travelled up the mighty Mahakam River to Kotabangun by bus, then to Muara Muntai via kapal biasa (riverboat) and finally to Tanjung Isuy by ces (a narrow wooden canoe powered by a lawnmower engine, attached to a propeller via a long stalk).
Tanjung Isuy is the first Dayak village as you head up river.
I’m sorry to report that Dayak villages may have more than one foot in the modern world. Tanjung Isuy has two Dayak longhouses but they are mostly for tourist homestays.
I’m happy to report however, that below the surface, Dayak traditions are alive and well. Although they don’t wear traditional clothing or live in longhouses for the most part, they still practice traditional crafts such as weaving, wood carving and basket-making.
On Saturday, I leave Kalimantan for Java to visit the famous Borobudur Temple site before working my way back to Jakarta for my return flight to Canada.
January 25, 2016
Back on Indonesia’s main island, Java.
Yogyakarta is said to be the cultural capital of Indonesia. The pace is certainly different here. Over populated, hustlers here, hustlers there. Yet the people seem to get along with each other, not a lot of horn honking and impatience on the streets.
In Solo, I met a 21-year-old Muslim woman who took me around on her motorcycle to visit museums and restaurants. Her mother has a family restaurant in the home and she invited me to stay with them two nights. They found my lifestyle very curious, wondering why I wasn’t home with my grandchildren.
Director and cinematographer for the Off the Map travel series, you can find his new video website here: www.dougspencervideo.com
Today I am sharing the emails he sent recently from the islands of Java, Sumatra, Kalimamtan and West Papua in Indonesia. Being a visual guy, Doug’s words are brief, but they do convey a sense of what it’s like to travel in his shoes.
December 28, 2015
Did you know that the Asmat people of Papua showed respect to their ancestors by using their skulls as pillows? Saw this in a museum.
Just spent a week in Dani villages around Wamena in Papua. Most of the people now wear clothes with the exception of a few old farts running around in foot-long penis gourds.
Videotaped a dance, fire making and a “fight”. Rather touristy and expensive. Some tribes here weren’t “discovered” until the 1930s but they have been used to photographers since the 1950s. They know how to market their old cultures.
Flying back to Jakarta and Medan then taking a bus to Lake Toba.
January 4, 2016
On the island of Samosir on Lake Toba, I videotaped more cultural dances. It is the home of the Bataks who are known for their architecture: houses on stilts with saddleback roofs looking like buffalo horns.
Then it was back to Medan and a flight to Padang.
Do you remember those humid summer days when your undershirt was wet with perspiration after a five-minute walk? Well that’s Padang.
Headed to the small island of Siberut tomorrow on the good ship Ambur Ambur.
I pray to Allah I don’t get too seasick.
January 11, 2016
Greetings from the Island of Siberut.
Am 100 miles off the coast of Sumatra on the Indian Ocean. Survived the 20-hour ferry ride from Padang. My lucky day, the water was relatively calm. Going upriver soon to meet the Mentawaians.
The Mentawaians are skilled boat builders. Traditional clothing was the loincloth made from the bark of the breadfruit tree for men and a bark skirt for women. I’m scratching just thinking about it.
You can spend hundreds of dollars for guides to take you by boat to remote villages on the Island of Siberut, but I rented a motorcycle for $20 and went by road. Soon as I left the paved sections, I got stuck in the ruts. I walked a few miles until I met a kid who agreed to drive the motorcycle for me.
January 14, 2016
Back in Padang.
One hundred and six, one hundred and seven, one hundred and eight…oh sorry, just counting my insect bites.
I just have to say I’ve never met such lovely people. Very friendly, kind, considerate and down-to-earth.
The world needs more Sumatra!
January 15, 2016
I’ve been moving around quite quickly.
Left Padang yesterday morning, flew to Jakarta, flew to Balikpapan and bused it to Samarinda all in one day. So now I’m in Kalimantan.
In Padang, I had asked more than one motorcycle taxi, as backup, to pick me up at my guesthouse at 6:00am to take me to Padang airport.
I went with the first guy but the second was pissed that I had left and broke my promise. He chased us down and demanded money at the airport because I had broken our agreement.
I paid.
A little bit of drama to the day.
me: Did you know there was a terrorist attack in Jakarta on January 14 and one Canadian was killed? How is that for drama?
Doug: Yes, I heard about it. I may have been passing through Jakarta that day on the way to Kalimantan. As far as I know, I’m still alive.
January 21, 2014
From Samarinda, I travelled up the mighty Mahakam River to Kotabangun by bus, then to Muara Muntai via kapal biasa (riverboat) and finally to Tanjung Isuy by ces (a narrow wooden canoe powered by a lawnmower engine, attached to a propeller via a long stalk).
Tanjung Isuy is the first Dayak village as you head up river.
I’m sorry to report that Dayak villages may have more than one foot in the modern world. Tanjung Isuy has two Dayak longhouses but they are mostly for tourist homestays.
I’m happy to report however, that below the surface, Dayak traditions are alive and well. Although they don’t wear traditional clothing or live in longhouses for the most part, they still practice traditional crafts such as weaving, wood carving and basket-making.
On Saturday, I leave Kalimantan for Java to visit the famous Borobudur Temple site before working my way back to Jakarta for my return flight to Canada.
January 25, 2016
Back on Indonesia’s main island, Java.
Yogyakarta is said to be the cultural capital of Indonesia. The pace is certainly different here. Over populated, hustlers here, hustlers there. Yet the people seem to get along with each other, not a lot of horn honking and impatience on the streets.
In Solo, I met a 21-year-old Muslim woman who took me around on her motorcycle to visit museums and restaurants. Her mother has a family restaurant in the home and she invited me to stay with them two nights. They found my lifestyle very curious, wondering why I wasn’t home with my grandchildren.